Wild Atlantic Roads: My 12-Day Road Trip Through Northern Spain & Portugal

Arriving by Sea: Plymouth to Santander with Brittany Ferries, on Board the Pont Aven

Rolling into Santander by ferry also gives you that first glimpse of Spain’s green north: rugged headlands, pretty bays and the city’s elegant waterfront. After disembarking, it was straight onto the coastal road and west towards Asturias.

There is something very romantic about starting a road trip by sea rather than air. I sailed into Santander, arriving fresh and ready to drive rather than frazzled from airports. Plus the EES checks were easy and fast, plenty of booths.

Santander to Gijón: Beaches & Cider Culture

Our first stop was Gijón, a vibrant coastal city that feels delightfully local and lived-in.

• Golden sandy beaches: Gijón has wide, sweeping city beaches that are very much part of everyday life. Locals stroll the promenade, surfers bob in the waves and there is always somewhere to sit and simply watch the Atlantic.

• Maritime history & cider houses: The harbour and old quarter are full of maritime character. This is cider country, and you will see it poured in the traditional style, from a height, in sidrerías dotted around town.

• Seafood at every turn: We ate brilliantly in small fish restaurants, the kind of unpretentious places where the menu is all about what came off the boats that morning.

We stayed at Hotel Gijón Rey Pelayo, a contemporary 4-star hotel with very friendly staff, an excellent cafeteria and the all-important car parking, which makes city stays so much easier on a road trip.

From Gijón, we turned our backs on the coast for a while and headed inland, towards Galicia.

Through the Negrón Tunnel into Galicia

Driving south, the scenery becomes more rugged and mountainous, and then you hit one of the quirky features of this route: the Negrón Tunnel, a 2.5-mile tunnel that links Asturias and León. It costs about 16.20 euros to pass through and feels like a portal between landscapes.

On the other side, you emerge into the greener, wilder region of Galicia and continue west to stay with family before dropping back down to the coast.

After a few days with family in Galicia, we headed to the coast at Vigo, then drove south into Portugal to the beautiful coastal city of Viana do Castelo.

Hilltop Sanctuary With Endless Views

Viana do Castelo sits on the banks of the River Limia, facing the Atlantic. We stayed high above the city in the Pousada, a historic hilltop property with truly spectacular views over river, town and ocean.

• It is only around 45 minutes from Porto Airport, so it works well as either a stand-alone coastal stay or part of a wider touring holiday.

• A funicular links the hilltop with the city centre, costing about 2 euros each way, which makes it very easy to pop down for a wander, dinner or a bit of shopping without touching the car.

Viana do Castelo has a long shipbuilding tradition and you really feel that maritime heritage. When we visited, two ships were in dry dock, including (we believe) the new Star Explorer for Windstar, which was fascinating to see from a distance.

Despite its history and industry, the city feels relaxed and welcoming, with pretty streets, squares and a gentle pace that encourages you to linger in cafés and just soak it all in.

Across Northern Portugal to Chaves, Castles & Hot Springs

From Viana, we drove east across northern Portugal via Guimarães, regarded as the birthplace of Portugal,  above the Douro Valley and onwards to Chaves, a gem of a Roman spa town close to the Spanish border.

Chaves turned out to be one of the loveliest surprises of the trip

• 14th-century castle: At the heart of the town stands a medieval castle, now home to the military museum. Climb to the top for sweeping panoramic views over the rooftops and river.

• Ponte Trajano: This handsome Roman bridge spans the Tâmega River and is picture-perfect, especially in the soft evening light.

• Thermal heritage: Chaves is famous for its hot thermal springs, known as some of the hottest waters in Europe. The Termas de Chaves spa complex was unfortunately closed during our visit, but normally you can buy a day pass for around 30 euros to soak in the healing waters.

• A very walkable town,  Everything in Chaves feels close at hand. It is compact, atmospheric and perfect for exploring on foot.

We stayed at Premium Aqua Flaviae, a modern 4-star hotel with an outdoor pool and a lovely restaurant. After days on the road, being able to relax by the pool and enjoy a good dinner on site was a real treat.

The Long Drive Back: Stormy Seas & Seafood Suppers in Santander

On Day 11, after breakfast, we left Portugal via Verín and drove along the A52 / A231 / A67 back through Spain to Santander. It is a straightforward drive of around six hours, and the changing landscapes keep it interesting.

For our final night we stayed at Hotel Santemar, right on the beachfront at El Sardinero in Santander. It is a brilliant location for a last seaside stroll, although on our visit the weather had other ideas. Torrential rain cut our walk short, but did not spoil the evening. We found a wonderful little local restaurant, Alamar (Taverna de Pescadores), where we lingered over superb fish dishes: the perfect farewell to the Atlantic before the journey home.

The following morning was all about simple pleasures. Coffee and a croissant, a quick dash to the local supermarket to stock up on olive oil and turrón, then back to the port to board the ferry to Plymouth.

Why I’d Do It All Again

This route was the perfect mix of:

• Wild coastal views and fresh Atlantic air

• Historic towns and cities with real character

• Excellent seafood and local specialities

• Relaxed driving, with manageable daily distances and plenty of variety

A 12-day circular road trip as we did.

• A slow travel adventure, combining ferry travel, hilltop pousadas, spa towns and seaside stays.

If you love authentic culture, scenic drives and good food, this region delivers in spades.