Long weekend in Bergamo: a stylish Italian escape without the price tag
If you are looking for an Italian city break that oozes culture, character and great food, but without the price tag of the big names, Bergamo is a brilliant choice. I visited in July for a long weekend, flying direct with Ryanair from Newcastle. The flight was quick and easy, and on arrival the transfer into town could not have been more straightforward: an airport bus into the centre for just a few euros. Within no time we were checking in to our base for the weekend, the excellently located Hotel Cappello d’Oro in the lower town.
Two cities in one: Città Bassa & Città Alta
Bergamo is essentially two cities in one.
The new town, Città Bassa, is the modern, commercial heart, with shops, bars, restaurants and wide boulevards. This is where we stayed, and it is ideal if you want everything on your doorstep plus easy access to the station and airport bus.
High above it, perched on a hill and wrapped in Venetian walls, sits the old town, Città Alta. This medieval quarter is all cobbled streets, pretty squares and stone buildings, with gorgeous little cafés and wine bars tucked around every corner.
The two are linked by a charming historic funicular, which makes the journey between old and new part of the experience. You glide up through the trees and the rooftops fall away beneath you, revealing views across the plains and towards the mountains.
Day 1: A Milan taster and Bergamo aperitivo
On our first day we were not meeting friends until later in the afternoon, so we took advantage of Bergamo’s proximity to Milan. It is only around 50 minutes by train, which makes it perfect for a day trip.
We headed straight to I Navigli, Milan’s historic canal district just southwest of the centre. With its waterside bars and bohemian feel, it is a lovely area for a stroll and a coffee.
From there we moved on to the showstoppers:
The magnificent Duomo di Milano, with its spectacular white marble façade and intricate spires.
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, just off Piazza del Duomo, lined with beautiful designer boutiques under an ornate glass-vaulted roof.
After soaking up some big-city glamour, we hopped back on the train to be back in Bergamo in time for one of the city’s highlights: aperitivo.
Aperitivo Bergamasco
Bergamo takes aperitivo seriously and it is offered in almost every bar early evening. Typically, you buy a drink and a selection of nibbles is provided free of charge.
Sometimes this is simply crisps or nuts, but we found places serving:
Prawn dishes
Local cheeses
Even steak tartare balls
You genuinely need to be careful not to fill up before dinner, as the food is often locally produced and very generous.
That evening we dined at a beautiful local restaurant in the new town, Gout, where we tried the local delicacy polenta, often referred to as “yellow gold”. Rich, comforting and perfectly paired with local ingredients, it is a must-try in Bergamo.
Day 2: Funiculars, hilltop views and neighbourhood trattorias
The next morning we were up relatively early and walked to the historic funicular, dating back to 1887, which links the lower and upper towns. In a couple of minutes you are transported from the modern streets of Città Bassa to the medieval magic of Città Alta.
We spent time wandering the cobbled lanes, discovering pretty squares and delis brimming with local produce, before taking the newer funicular up again to the summit of Colle di San Vigilio.
Here we paused for a chilled glass of Lombardy white wine while taking in sweeping views across Bergamo and the surrounding hills: the perfect slow-travel moment.
Back down in the old town, we explored more of its narrow streets and tempting food outlets serving local dishes, then returned to the hotel for a quick freshen-up.
Evening in the suburbs
Aperitivo that evening was in the pedestrianised Piazza degli Alpini in the new town, which has a lovely, relaxed feel early evening.
For dinner we ventured a bit further, taking a walk out into the suburbs to a family-run restaurant that had been recommended to us, Pasta e Basta. They were slightly bewildered to see tourists who had come so far out to find them, but we were made incredibly welcome and the food was fantastic: simple, authentic and full of flavour. It felt like the kind of local experience that really makes a trip.
Day 3: Art, air‑conditioning and dinner in Città Alta
With the temperatures into the high 30s, we decided to do something a little different from simply wandering the streets and headed for the blissfully air‑conditioned Accademia Carrara.
This gallery is a real gem, housing one of the highest concentrations of Italian masterpieces outside the major Italian cities. There are around 1,500 to 1,800 works of art, spanning from the Renaissance to the 19th century, including pieces by giants such as Raphael, Botticelli, Bellini, Mantegna, Titian, Pisanello, Lorenzo Lotto and Giovan Battista Moroni. It is a wonderful way to spend a few hours, particularly on a hot day.
After cooling off among the masterpieces, we walked back to the hotel and, naturally, headed out again for aperitivo.
Dinner in a former monastery
For our final dinner we took the funicular back up to the old town and walked to Il Circolino Città Alta. Located in the heart of medieval Bergamo, this atmospheric restaurant occupies the site of an ancient monastery that was later converted into a prison.
Today it serves local Bergamo flavours using ingredients sourced through very short supply chains and local producers. The food was fantastic and, for such a characterful setting, exceptional value: pizzas started at around 6 EUR when we visited.
After dinner we lingered over a drink in one of Città Alta’s pretty squares before heading back down to see what was happening in Piazza degli Alpini.
By night this square really comes alive, with bustling bars and in some cases DJs creating a great atmosphere. There are strict noise controls and outdoor music has to stop by 11 pm, but the crowds simply drift indoors and some bars stay open as late as 2 am.
Departure day: last strolls and lunch in the square
On our final morning there was time for a bit of shopping in the main commercial area of town, picking up a few local treats and gifts.
We then headed back to Piazza degli Alpini for a leisurely lunch in the sun, watching the world go by, before strolling over to the bus station for the short ride back to the airport and our flight home.
Why I would recommend Bergamo for a weekend break
Bergamo offers:
Authentic Italian culture and architecture without the crowds and prices of the bigger names
A beautiful contrast between modern Città Bassa and medieval Città Alta, easily linked by funicular
Fantastic food and aperitivo culture, with a real focus on local produce
Easy access to Milan for a day trip, giving you a taste of both cities in one break
Excellent value for money, especially when it comes to dining out and enjoying a drink
It is an ideal long weekend destination if you want that classic Italian mix of culture, cuisine and atmosphere, but with a slightly slower pace and friendlier price tag.
If you would like to plan something similar, I can tailor the flights, hotel and local experiences to your preferences and help you get the best from both Bergamo and nearby Milan.
